29 June 2026
I’m just pulling into Friedrichshafen. Although the town is set in an idyllic landscape, it bears witness to an incredibly staid and ugly post-war architecture. Its inhabitants seem to be a mixture of snooty Badeners and refugees.
What must it have been like in 1945, when the little harbour town was razed to the ground? Did the farmers of Thurgau stand on the opposite shore of the lake, marvelling at the immense explosions and clouds of smoke rising from Germany?